It's early spring, and that means wild leeks

The ramp, sometimes called wild leek, is a wild onion native to North America. Though the bulb resembles that of a scallion, the beautiful flat, broad leaves set it apart. According to John Mariani, author of "The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink," the word ramp comes from "rams," or "ramson," an Elizabethan dialect rendering of the wild garlic. The word is first mentioned in English print in 1530, but was used earlier by English immigrants of the southern Appalachian Mountains.

Ramps grow from South Carolina to Canada, and in many areas they're considered a spring delicacy and even a reason for celebration. West Virginia is wellknown for their many festivals and events in celebration of the ramp. The flavor and odor of ramps is usually compared to a combination of onions and garlic, and the garlic odor is particularly strong.

Strong enough, in fact, that even ramp-lovers will advise caution. If you sit down to a big meal of ramps, don't be surprised if people continue to keep their distance after a few days have passed!

Cautions aside, ramps add wonderful and uniquely pungent flavor to soups, casseroles, rice dishes and potato dishes. Use them raw or cooked in any recipe calling for scallions or leeks, or cook them in a more traditional way, scrambled with eggs or fried with potatoes. Since ramps aren't cultivated in the way leeks are, they're much easier to clean. Just rinse thoroughly and scrub off any excess dirt on the bulbs.

Ramps aren't available for long, but you can chop and freeze them for cooked dishes. The green tops are milder in flavor and are usually used along with the bulbs. Chop about half of the green leaves separately, airdry them for a few hours then freeze them in an airtight container for future use as a seasoning.

Ramps with bacon and

hard-cooked eggs. INGREDIENTS:

+ 1 pound ramps

+ 4 to 6 slices bacon

+ salt and pepper to taste

+ 2 hard-cooked eggs

PREPARATION:

Cut cleaned ramps into 1- inch pieces; boil in salted water for 3 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, fry bacon in a heavy skillet until just crisp. Remove bacon and dice.

Drain parboiled ramps and place in hot bacon fat.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and fry until tender. Serve garnished with bacon and boiled eggs, chopped or thinly sliced.

Serves 4 to 6.

Fried potatoes

with ramps

INGREDIENTS:

+ 4 cups ramps, cleanded and sliced into 1-inch pieces

+ 3 Tbsp bacon drippings

+ 3 to 4 medium potatoes, peeled, sliced

+ 3 large eggs

PREPARATION:

Heat bacon drippings in a large heavy skillet; add sliced ramps and potatoes. Fry until tender. Break the eggs over the ramps and potatoes and stir to mix well. Fry for about 2 minutes, or until eggs are cooked on bottom.

Turn and fry on the other side for 2 to 4 minutes longer, until eggs are cooked. Serve hot with biscuits and butter.

Serves 4 to 6.