Far Afield
Characteristics of a good tree stand
With Oak Duke

Oak Duke, publisher of the Wellsville Daily Reporter writes regularly on the outdoors.

Deer hunters would agree that there are a number of key elements that go into the making of a good tree stand.

Near the top of my list is the stand's location in relation to scent-control; that is, general wind or air movement direction.

Bow hunters especially, who do not pay attention to the wind, can find it more difficult to annually fill a tag.

An archery stand especially, compared to a stand hunted with a gun is not worth much if it's on the wrong side of the wind and the deer picks up the hunter before Mr. Whitetail comes into sight.

One particular portable tree stand on top of a high ridge, overlooking a deep wooded basin is a favorite. And in some years, it's even better. There's a goldmine there - acorns in big clusters, high up at the top of the oak trees' crown rain down during the early part of the season.

The tree stand tree itself was a good tree, which means one that it has a multiple trunks coming out off its base.

In contrast, tree stands that are put up on lone pole trees may seem all right in the early weeks of archery season until the leaves come down in the middle of October. Then the bow hunter sticks out.

Tree stands tucked into the boughs of a hemlock tree, a split tree, a multi-trunk tree or at least one with a couple trunks or big limbs is best so that the hunter's silhouette is broken up.

Tree stands that are set in solid, that don't move, are the most comfortable.

Sturdy portable stands that have just a bit of a wobble can be secured by ratchet tie-downs.

Some tree stands have natural shooting lanes. A deer hunter can cover the trail, scrape, rub line, or feeding area. Don't set up in a tree too closely to the sign, but not too far, either.

When first in the stand, pick up an imaginary bow and pretend to shoot at imaginary deer. This excercise helps show us where limbs and twigs could interfere with the shot.

Sometimes, after a study of the winds we may decide to move.

A good way to test the winds from a stand is pick a few milkweed pods and take out the "floaties." (And it is best to remove the seed.) The white milkweed shows the wind's tendency.

A test of the swirling patterns from our tree stand may make us relocate to a better tree nearby. After all, we are not married to a tree. The stand may be much better, in another tree only 20 to 30 yards away.

More often than not the first time a stand is put up in an area, it soon becomes evident that the stand should be moved a bit.

And sometimes we sacrifice comfort, and a "perfect" tree for a "poorer" tree but in a much better position for a good shot.

Usually, the "it's good enough" attitude will come back to haunt us during archery season when small distances are so critical for success.

Some bowhunters might think that either stand would produce a similar number of deer sightings.

But when we are in pursuit of truly wild and hard-hunted big bucks and old does, hunters need every edge they can get when hunting with a bow and arrow.

And "sightings" may be fine when we carry a shotgun, camera, or rifle, but not for a bow. Just 10 yards can make all the difference between a shot and not.

Correct placement of a tree stand is crucial.

After a stand is hung, work on the stand is not done.

Next comes the pruning of tree limbs for shooting lanes.

Judiciously prune the limbs so that deer coming into shooting range have some cover but at your optimal range there are openings to shoot through.

A wide clear space is not a good thing, much as one might think. Bow hunting is not golf. Shooting corridors are not fairways.

Instead trim just enough to allow an arrow to fly unimpeded. But also, leave adequate cover so that when a deer walks past, its head is sometimes behind a tree or brush, allowing us to come to full draw. (Our movement is hidden by the tree trunk, limbs, or foliage.)

Many a whitetail has spooked when a hunter drew back his bow after too many limbs were cut in the early season, leaving him exposed in November.

A couple hints about trimming out a stand:

Make sure any saplings cut down are cut at ground level and cover up the little stump with leaves. Foot-high sapling stumps can be dangerous to walk around in the half light of dawn or dusk.

Back up in the stand: Imagine which direction the deer will be moving, imagine the shot.

Try a few times to see what shooting would be like with an imaginary bow. Check out the best place to hang your bow, so when the deer is coming, there will be a minimum of movement and noise.

And then with the bow in the stand, practice, "play act" your shooting routine so that it is second nature.

And finally, clean a trail to your stand so that you can enter it as noiselessly as possible. Stealthily approach the stand from a direction opposite from where the deer are expected to be and always into the wind.